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PLUS: Swiss watch exports to the U.S. fall dramatically. It’s The Jewelry Wire daily digest for Fri., Sept. 18, 2026.
During the CIBJO Congress in Vicenza, Italy, a panel discussed the legal and ethical implications of artificial intelligence in the jewelry industry. Jacques Voorhees, CEO of Icecap.ai, highlighted his company's weekly internal discussions to find innovative ways AI can streamline tasks, acknowledging the evolving landscape of AI applications. Paola De Luca, CEO of The Futurist, cautioned that despite AI's popularity, there's a significant knowledge gap, warning that designers who merely copy with AI risk being replaced. She emphasized the critical need to understand and 'drive' this technology skillfully. Tai Wong from Platinum Guild International raised concerns about intellectual property protection, pointing out that some Chinese design and manufacturing firms use AI to rapidly generate thousands of designs by downloading online images, drastically reducing their human design teams. Tzafrir Engelhard, CEO of Sarine Technologies, discussed the inherent dilemma of protecting advanced algorithms and software when integrated with AI, as it increases vulnerability. He urged organizations to engage with these challenges to fully grasp AI's advantages and disadvantages. Engelhard further advised businesses to first identify specific areas for AI implementation and then seek specialized consultants to guide them through the process of selecting appropriate AI models and integrating solutions. Both Voorhees and De Luca offered broader perspectives on AI's role: Voorhees saw it as an opportunity for small craftsmen to gain global visibility, while De Luca stressed the enduring importance of human creativity and craftsmanship. She questioned the environmental impact of rapid, AI-driven mass production and advocated for ethical decision-making in the industry's adoption of AI.
In August, Swiss watch exports globally increased by 9.1% year-over-year. However, exports to the United States experienced a significant 19.4% decline, according to statistics from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH). This drop occurred despite a favorable comparison base from the previous August, when President Trump had imposed higher tariffs on Swiss imports. In related news, FHH and GIA announced a new collaborative program set to begin in early 2027, aimed at broadening access to horological knowledge by offering FHH Academy programs to GIA students worldwide.
Pamela Bernstein-Gulla, the Chief Engagement Officer for Hill & Co., is set to retire on September 30 after dedicating 40 years to the jewelry industry. Her distinguished career began at Fortunoff, where she spent 25 years, eventually rising to Vice President and General Manager of their Fifth Avenue flagship store. She has been with Hill & Co. for the past decade. Following her retirement, Bernstein-Gulla plans to remain active in the industry by continuing her service on the Women’s Jewelry Association’s New York Metro chapter mentorship committee.
Paul Zimnisky highlights the critical need for a liquid diamond market, particularly for buybacks, referencing Titan Company's successful cash-gold program. He notes that Titan's CEO, Arun Narayan, underscored the program's purpose as solving a customer problem and being a responsible industry practice, rather than focusing solely on profit. Zimnisky suggests that the broader fine jewelry industry could benefit by adopting a similar approach: instilling product value and providing essential consumer services. This topic will be further explored in the upcoming 'Saturday LongRead'.
Botswana's Vice President, Ndaba Gaolathe, affirmed the government's cautious and responsible approach to investments, especially concerning its stake in De Beers. As quoted by Bloomberg, he stated, 'I can assure you that Botswana as a government, the Ministry of Finance, is not reckless and careless. We’re very particular about how we invest.' These remarks appear to counter previous reports from BNEIntelliNews, which suggested Botswana was still deliberating the size of its desired stake in De Beers as part of Anglo American's proposed sale.